New ‘hometowns’ series begins. Plus, a cinematic waterfall in Iceland; an Appalachian Trail record; beyond Burgundy’s wine
|  | Friday, November 12, 2021 | | | | |
| In today’s newsletter: Part I of a new series on America’s hometowns. Plus, a cinematic waterfall in Iceland; an Appalachian Trail record; and ... beyond wines in Burgundy. | |
 | | PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF ANNE KIM-DANNIBALE | | By George Stone, TRAVEL Executive Editor
“Home” is a little word with a long shadow. It follows us wherever we go, underfoot at noon and expansive at the end of day. For travelers, home is the beginning and the end—just ask Odysseus—and it’s been said that we wander to discover what we mean by home.
Our senior editor Anne Kim-Dannibale was born in Seoul in 1973. A year later her family (pictured above; Anne is second to the right) moved to L.A.’s Koreatown (pictured below). Once there, they set about unlocking a version of the “American dream” she writes in her story, which launches our series on hometowns: those little places that loom large in our identities.
“For immigrants like us, this neighborhood was a familiar way station in the inscrutable America of the 1970s. In this bustling, multicultural patch east of Miracle Mile and west of Art Deco downtown, people spoke our language and ate the same foods,” she writes. | | | |
 | | PHOTOGRAPHS BY EMANUEL HAHN | | | Children naturally think of their hometowns as the center of the world. When Anne returned after 20 years away, she smiled at what was familiar—hangul (Korean language) signs, jjimjjilbang (Korean spas), bingsu (shaved ice) cafés, and noraebang (karaoke rooms)—and marveled at what was new. Decades ago, who would have guessed the Korean wave trends of K-pop, K-drama, and K-beauty (not to mention Squid Game) would soon captivate the world? But that’s hallyu for you. (Below left, Seon Hee Chon unpacks new products to be sold at Music Plaza, the Koreatown shop she opened in 1992. Below right, the traditional built-in table grill at Korean barbecue Chosun Galbee, and multiple side dishes called banchan.) | | | |
| Signs of change abound in this 50-year-old neighborhood. In recent years Koreatown, which already counted a large Hispanic community, has become even more diverse, with people arriving from Bangladesh, Thailand, Mongolia, and the Philippines.
But home remains home to Anne. “Everywhere I went, there was a memory or a person who looked like my aunt or uncle. I felt like I just blended right in—and I don’t often feel that way when I travel.”
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| | A world of water: Dettifoss in sparsely populated northeast Iceland is one of the most powerful waterfalls in Europe. From the cliff next to Dettifoss, there’s a sense of vertigo from the intense rush of the water, which rages over it at a rate of 6,816 cubic feet per second. The 144-foot falls were featured in the 2012 science fiction movie Prometheus, standing in as landscape for an Earth-like planet. | | | |
 | | PHOTOGRAPH BY ROBERT F. BUKATY, AP | | Toasted with Champagne: M.J. “Sunny” Eberhart, 83, walked into the record books Sunday when he became the oldest recorded hiker to complete the 2,193-mile Appalachian Trail, the Associated Press reports. Eberhart (pictured above and center in Gorham, New Hampshire), better known as Nimblewill Nomad, admits he had quite a few spills on slippery rocks along the way.
No more captive animal ‘experiences’: Travel giant Expedia, after reviewing its animal welfare policy, has stopped selling vacations that include experiences with captive dolphins and whales, Sky News reports. “Attractions and activities that involve performances by or interactions with dolphins and other cetaceans will no longer be available on our sites,” the company said.
All aboard? After 10 years of construction, Vietnam rolled out its first metro rail network in Hanoi this week. The new line is an attempt to cut down on some of the traffic and pollution that has dogged the city for years, the South China Morning Post reports. The capital is known for its dense crowds of motorbikes.
Sleeping in church: Nodding off in church used to be a big no-no. But a U.K. charity has for several years been renting out a place for visitors to “champ” or camp out in the pews of some churches. The program has been wildly popular during the pandemic, as hotels are harder to come by for people traveling closer to home, Marketplace reports.
A national park, belatedly? Pennsylvania, New Jersey, and New York do not have national parks (the closest is Shenandoah, in Virginia). The Sierra Club and other outdoor enthusiasts are trying to change that, pushing for a new designation for the Delaware Water Gap National Recreational Area. With 70,000 acres of mountains, forests, and the Delaware River, the Water Gap is one of the most popular outdoor destinations in the country, USA Today reports. | | | |
 | | PHOTOGRAPH BY SLAWEK KOZDRAS | | | Beyond fine wine: Most visitors to Burgundy, France, focus on the famous stretch below Dijon. But on a road trip through its lesser-known zones, Burgundy’s two great themes of spirituality and gastronomy truly present themselves, Nina Caplan writes for Nat Geo. (The Yonne region, named for the river that runs through it, pictured above, is famous for cherries. The wider world, however, knows it for Chablis.) | | | |
 | | PHOTOGRAPH BY DEMETRIOS IOANNOU | | Real or replica? Tourists flock to Greece to marvel at the Parthenon in Athens or the lions on the island of Delos. They also can leave with a piece inspired by the past. Artisans in a workshop established by the ministry of culture create high-quality and legal copies of the country’s masterpieces. Prices start at 20 euros ($23) for a small Cycladic figurine and go as high as 10,000 euros (about $11,500) for a copy of the Hermes of Praxiteles. (Pictured above, painter Konstantinos Kypriotakis adds finishing touches to a plaster replica of an ancient statue of Spartan warrior king Leonidas.)
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| This newsletter has been curated and edited by David Beard, Jen Tse, and Monica Williams. We’d love to hear from you at david.beard@natgeo.com. | | | |
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